friday October 12 and Saturday October 13: we are in the Porto to Santiago phase of our walk, which is said to be more beautiful and well traveled. So far that seems true. We walked on Friday to sao Pedro da rates. The streets were quieter and more like the Galician area around Santiago — the steepled grain cribs, the high stone walls along the road — and the smell of cow manure. Our albergue that night was the most crowded yet and a Babel of tongues— the Norwegians and also Portuguese, at least six Czechs, Australian, German, italian. And a sweet kid/navy vet from Las Vegas. Today we had a shorter walk into barcelos and had time to catch up on laundry. We are two thirds of the way and have 11, maybe 10, more days of walking.