Camino days 4 and 5

Tuesday September 25 and Wednesday September 26: a crossroads because of the heat. Susan took the train all the way to Santarém on Tuesday in 26 minutes. Keith, her husband, walked all the way to Santarém on Tuesday. The other 4 of us walked only halfway — about 10 miles — to Porto de muge. The walk was very nice past fields of tomatoes, corn, cabbage, grapes. Past oleanders the size of trees and past    Lantanas the size of bushes. As on the Camino Frances, the distance between towns was less so more opportunities to rest. At Porto de muge, the four of us found we had reserved a whole house to ourselves on rio Tejo. We sat in the kitchen imagining the dinner we could make. But when we went out for provisions there were no shops in town. A bar owner made us sandwiches for the next day, and bill concocted a vegetable and rice stir fry from the scraps in the house and backpacks for dinner. I think it will be among our most memorable Camino meals. Wednesday morning we headed out again for a 10 mile walk at 6:30 am to beat the heat. Past grape fields and headed 135 meters up into the fortified town of Santarém. We were expecting a day as bad as Camino 1 but we had breezes and shade and arrived to a lovely hostel in Santarém by noon. We took care of business, explored the Roman moorish and Portuguese sites of the town, and had dinner with friends. Tomorrow 15 miles

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